ITIL

Itil, also spelled Atil (literally meaning "Big River") - a city established in the first half of the VIIIth century, near the mouth of the Itil River to the Khazarian Sea. It was built on the model of a campsite and consisted of seven concentric rings. The city was one of the most important trading points on the route of the Silk Road, which connected China and Middle Asia with Europe. It was built by the Khazars, who inhabited that area. The Khazars were of a Turkish origin, they led a nomadic life, and a sea which today is called the Caspian Sea was named by them. Originally, the Khazars inhabited the West Turkish Empire. After its fall in the VIIth century, they became fully independent, and between years 630 and 650 they established their own country - Khazarian Kaganat. In its heyday, Khazars' country was the biggest and the richest in Europe. Its territory included south Russia, north Caucasus, east Ukraine, Crimea, west Kazakhstan and north-west Uzbekistan, as well as other Turkish tribes, such as Sabirs and Bulgars. In the IXth century the Khazars also ruled the tribes of east Slavs, Magyars, Burts, Pechenegs and north-caucasian Huns.

The first capital of Khazaria was Balanjar (upper Chir-Jurt). About 720 the Khazars moved their capital to Samandar (a coast city in north Caucasus famous for beautiful gardens and vineyards). In a year 750 the capital of Khazaria was moved to Itil for about 200 years. Itil was adjacent to Khazaran, one of the main trading centers in Khazaria. At the beginning of the Xth century Khazaran-Itil was mainly inhabited by Muslims, Jews and some Christians. In the middle of the Xth century, the capital was moved forward to west territories. With the help of Byzantine workmen, Sarkal was established on the river Don.

Khazaria was distinguished by its double monarchy. Khagan was the highest (reigning) king, and Khagan-bek was a ruling king and army commander. The Khagans were very tolerant, even when they converted to Judaism and it was their court's religion (which also means country's religion), they allowed Christian Greeks, pagan Slavs and Muslim Persians to profess their religion. In the capital there was the Supreme Court, consisting of 7 judges. 2 of them were for Christians, 2 for Muslims, 2 for Jews and one for pagans. What is more, Jews were judged according to the Torah, Christians according to the Bible, Muslims according to Koran and pagans according to their own (usually Slavic) habits.

The Khazars played an important role in the history of Europe. They drove away primitive people inhabiting the territories of present-day Bulgaria, which enabled to establish a modern Bulgarian nation. In its heyday, Khazaria managed to keep the balance of power between the Muslim Caliphate of Baghdad and the Christian Byzantine Empire. Waging wars known as Arabic-Khazar wars (usually victorious) in the VIIth and VIIIth century, Islamic expansion to the North of Caucasus was stopped. The symbol of Khazarian political independence was converting to Judaism as an official religion of the court and the country. The decision was made by the king (khagan) Bulan in A.D. 838.

In 965 the Khazars suffered first defeat, when a kievian duke Svyatoslav conquered Sarkel - the biggest Khazars' stronghold, and 2 years later the capital of Khazaria - Itil. Khazars' country vegetated till the XIIIth century, and a fatal decisive blow was dealt by Jingis Chan (1162-1227), who in a year 1223 devastated Khazaria as far as Crimea, banished Khazars and Jews to middle and Eastern Europe. The last Khazars' ruler found shelter in Georgia. Last references about the Khazars come from the XIIth century, however they did not disappear from the Earth. The vast majority escaped to the west territories of present-day Poland, Romania, Hungary, and then Germany and France. They mixed with local societies forming so called Ashkenazi- middle European Jewish community.

Today, in the place of the early medieval Khazars' capital Itil there is a town Astrahan, inhabited by about 500 thousand people. It is the capital of Astrahanian District, a big port and an important railway junction. With the exception of a small display cabinet in a local museum containing excavations findings from the times of kagnat, unfortunately there is no other trace of Itil.

The river Itil, in the ancient times Rha, today is called the Volga. From its source in Waldaj to the Caspian Sea it is 3530 km long, and it is still the longest river in Europe. Volga's basin is 1360 km long, and its main side streams are Kama and Oka.